Backpacking The California Riding & Hiking Trail (JTNP)
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Backpacking the California Riding & Hiking Trail in Joshua Tree National Park had been a dream of mine. I finally made it happen, thru-hiking the 37-mile trail with three friends. The route spans from Black Rock Campground in the West to the North Entrance in the East. In this post, I’ll share everything you need to know to plan and hike the CRHT, along with a report of my adventure!
- Overview of the California Riding & Hiking Trail in Joshua Tree National Park
- Planning Your California Riding & Hiking Trail Hike
- Gear & Packing List for the California Riding & Hiking Trail
- California Riding & Hiking Trail Experience & Highlights
- Relive my California Riding & Hiking Trail Hike in Joshua Tree National Park
- Final Thoughts on the California Riding & Hiking Trail
Overview of the California Riding & Hiking Trail in Joshua Tree National Park
The California Riding and Hiking Trail (CRHT) is a scenic 37-mile point-to-point route in Joshua Tree National Park that stretches from Black Rock Campground in the west to the North Entrance in the east. The total elevation gain is 3,106 feet.
Most hikers begin at Black Rock Campground (elevation 3,979 feet) and descend to the North Entrance (2,605 feet). The most challenging climb occurs within the first six miles, after which the trail becomes mostly flat or gently downhill, with only a few short, manageable ascents.
Along the way, hikers will encounter expansive valleys of Joshua trees, towering boulder formations, and miles of remote desert wilderness.
The CRHT is a favorite among backpackers and typically takes 2-3 days to complete. It’s also popular with trail runners, some of whom take on the challenge of running the entire trail in a single day.
If you’re not ready for a thru-hike, you can explore shorter sections from multiple access points, including Black Rock, Upper Covington Flat, Juniper Flats, Geology Tour Road, Twin Tanks, and the North Entrance.
Planning Your California Riding & Hiking Trail Hike
A permit is required for overnight trips on the California Riding & Hiking Trail year-round. You can easily obtain one online at Recreation.gov. Select “Joshua Tree Overnight Backpacking,” choose your start date and group size, and then designate the zone where you’ll camp each night.
For our trip, I booked Juniper Flats for the first night and Twin Tanks for the second night.
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Best Time to Hike & Water Considerations in Joshua Tree National Park
The ideal season for hiking the CRHT is November through March, when temperatures are more manageable. Remember: There is no water source available in Joshua Tree National Park. You’ll need to cache your own water at designated backcountry trailheads before starting your hike, and pack out any remaining water when you leave.
For our trip, we set up three water caches – more than we needed, but intentionally so to ensure we were covered in case of an emergency.
💧 Juniper Flats Trailhead – for water the morning of Day 2
💧 Geology Tour Road – for water the late afternoon of Day 2
💧 Twin Tanks – we cached 1 gallon there in case of emergency for Day 3 morning
⚠️ Important Permit Requirements ⚠️
✔️ Permits are required, and you must specify your camping zones for each night.
✔️ You must watch the educational video linked in your confirmation email from Recreation.gov. If the Backcountry Permits Office cannot verify that you’ve watched it, they will contact you and require you to do so before validating your permit.
Gear & Packing List for the California Riding & Hiking Trail
Planning your CRHT thru-hike? Here’s my complete gear list, along with top recommendations for the best gear I’d choose if I were buying today. Plus, don’t miss my full breakdown of all my outdoor gear in this blog post! Want a free, ready-to-use backpacking gear checklist? Sign up for my mailing list and grab yours today!
Shelter and Sleeping
Clothing & Accessories
Navigation and Safety
Hydration
Miscellaneous
Backcountry Poopy Kit
Personal Hygiene Items
Camp Kitchen
Backpacking Meal Ideas for the California Riding & Hiking Trail
Backpacking Breakfast & Morning Snack
Backpacking Lunch & Afternoon Snack
Backpacking Dinner & Dessert
California Riding & Hiking Trail Experience & Highlights
Day 1: The Journey Begins (Water Cache And The First 12 Miles)
This adventure took place in mid-March 2025, during an unusually cold spell for the season. Snow blanketed the ground around Juniper Flats, and as we drove through the park, temperatures hovered in the mid-30s°F (1–3°C)
Water Caching
Four of us embarked on this adventure, leaving San Diego at 6 AM to arrive at the Joshua Tree National Park West Entrance at 8:20 AM. Before hitting the trail, we strategically dropped water at key locations to ensure we had enough for the trek:
- 8:40 AM – Juniper Flats: Dropped 1 gallon each for Saturday morning.
- 9:10 AM – Geology Tour Road: Dropped 1 gallon each for Saturday night.
- 9:20 AM – Twin Tanks: Left 1 gallon each as a backup for Sunday morning.
With our caches set, we drove to the North Entrance Trailhead, where we left one car before all four of us headed to Black Rock Campground with our second vehicle. After a quick stop for photos at the park sign and a final proper bathroom break at the visitor center, we arrived at the Black Rock Campground trailhead by 10:30 AM.
After some final adjustments, we officially hit the trail at 10:50 AM.
⚠️ If you don’t have the luxury of using two cars, cell service (I use T-Mobile) is available at the North Entrance backcountry parking lot. You can arrange for a Lyft or Uber to pick you up just outside the park at the North Entrance.
Hiking Through a Winter Wonderland
At 10:55 AM, we officially started our California Riding & Hiking Trail hike from Black Rock Campground. The trail was well-marked throughout, with mile markers at every mile and no overgrown sections, making navigation effortless. However, there was no shade, and the terrain was completely exposed, so sun protection is essential if you hike this on a sunny day. And there were no bugs!
We stopped for lunch around mile 4 at 12:30 PM, taking a 30-minute break to refuel. By 2 PM, we reached Upper Covington Flats at mile 5.8, marking the end of the first uphill stretch. From there, we enjoyed an easy downhill section until mile 9, followed by gently rolling hills until mile 10.5.
As we gained elevation, we started seeing patches of snow, a sight that made my heart race with excitement. I’ve dreamt of experiencing Joshua Tree covered in snow for years, and I couldn’t believe my luck that it was happening on the very first day of my thru-hike. By the time we reached the Upper Covington Flats section, the ground was dusted with snow, making the landscape even more magical.
Another highlight of the day was spotting a mule deer with tiny antlers around mile 8. It dashed across the trail too quickly for photos, but it was a beautiful moment in the quiet desert landscape. Even more appealing? We didn’t see a single other person on the trail all day.
Setting Up Camp
By 5 PM, we reached our campsite at around mile 12. The Garmin weather report said it was 42°F but felt like 31°F, definitely chilly! After setting up camp and having a quick dinner, I bundled up in my sleeping bag and called it a night by 8 PM. Despite the cold, I was toasty warm and slept like a baby! Read more about my cozy sleep setup here for how I stay warm on colder nights.
⚠️ Tip: If you don’t set up camp by mile 12.5, be prepared for another uphill section with mini switchbacks. It’ll be a while before you find a suitable space to set up camp, so plan accordingly!
Day 2: Into the Heart of Joshua Tree National Park (Mile 12 to 27)
A Slow Start and Warmer Weather
I woke up around 7:20 AM, taking my time as we waited for our tents to dry before packing up. As I lifted my tent with one door open to shake out the dirt and debris, a powerful gust rushed through, making it feel like I was holding onto a kite ready to take flight. Compared to the relentless 35 mph gusts from the previous night, it was an improvement, but still far from calm. The morning was noticeably warmer though with temperatures rising to 55°F. I didn’t even need my puffy jacket as we set off at 10:15 AM.
Busier Trails and Changing Terrain
Unlike the solitude of Day 1, we started encountering eight trail runners and two backpackers. It wasn’t exactly crowded, but after spending an entire day without seeing a soul, the presence of other hikers was noticeable.
The trail gradually climbed uphill for about two miles before shifting into a mix of rocky, sandy, and flatter sections. The varying terrain kept things interesting, though my legs were starting to feel the miles adding up.
Water Cache Stops and Ryan Campground
By 1 PM, we reached Juniper Flats and picked up our first water cache, which felt like a much-needed refresh. We took a break here for lunch, enjoying the chance to sit and refuel.
By 2:25 PM, we arrived at Ryan Campground, where we took advantage of the facilities to drop off some trash to lighten our load a little.
The next 6.6 miles to Geology Tour Road passed steadily as we made our way through the Lost Horse section of the trail. From Ryan Campground, the first two miles were a gradual uphill climb, wrapping around Ryan Mountain on our left. As the landscape shifted, we started seeing what looked like black volcanic rocks, and the trail itself became rockier and more rugged, a stark contrast to the smoother terrain of Juniper Flats.
After cresting the uphill section, we descended back onto the rugged path before transitioning once again to the familiar sandy desert trail. When I reached the Geology Tour Road parking lot around 4:30 PM, I took a moment to prop my legs up on the rocks in a ‘legs up the wall’ yoga pose—exactly what I needed! I felt completely revived for the final stretch to camp, a little over a mile, where we arrived with plenty of time to enjoy the sunset and a well-earned meal.
Camp in Twin Tanks
We covered 15 miles for the day and set up camp just over a mile from the GTR trailhead near mile 27. We were rewarded by a stunning sunset over the vast desert landscape. The weather was better than the previous night (it was about 50°F and no wind), and dinner felt especially satisfying after a long day.
Sleep came easily, and I was out from 9 PM to 3 AM. But when I woke up, hip pain made it hard to fall back asleep. In hindsight, I should have taken a painkiller right away instead of trying to tough it out. Lesson learned.
Day 3: The Final Stretch to the North Entrance
A Slow Morning in the Wilderness
I got up at 7 AM, taking my time to savor the morning. Breakfast on top of the boulders, watching the sunrise over the Joshua Tree Wilderness beauty, was the perfect way to begin our last day. There was no rush, just the quiet satisfaction of knowing we were almost at the finish line.
One of my friends discovered that his trekking poles, which had been left in his vestibule overnight, had been chewed on by a mouse… an unexpected wilderness souvenir!
We packed up camp and set off by 9:25 AM, feeling excitement and fatigue as we entered the home stretch.
Final Water Cache and Increasing Wind
By 10:15 AM, we reached Twin Tanks trailhead, where we had stashed an emergency water cache.
The morning had been still and mild, but as we descended toward the North Entrance, the wind picked up. My sleeping pad, strapped to the outside of my pack, kept catching the gusts, throwing off my balance at times.
The Longest Few Miles
Despite the breathtaking downhill views, the last stretch felt never-ending for me. A combination of lack of sleep and hip pain flaring up again turned what should have been an easy finish into a slow, determined effort. Every mile dragged on, but I kept pushing forward.
Finally, at 12:55 PM, we reached the North Entrance Trailhead. A mix of relief and accomplishment hit all at once. We snapped triumphant photos, stretched out our muscles, and then returned to Black Rock Campground to retrieve the second car.
A Well-Earned Celebration
The only proper way to wrap up such an adventure? A well-earned meal and drinks. We headed straight to Tiny Pony Tavern in Yucca Valley, where we celebrated our successful thru-hike with some of the best post-trail food and drinks I’ve ever had.
Relive my California Riding & Hiking Trail Hike in Joshua Tree National Park
Check out my California Riding & Hiking Trail thru-hike on Relive! With Relive, you can create custom videos that vividly depict your journeys, turning memories into captivating stories for sharing. Through Relive’s immersive storytelling, you can share the beauty of your adventures and inspire others to explore nature. Join this vibrant community and turn every adventure into a captivating visual story. Embrace the adventure and seize the chance to immortalize it with Relive!
Final Thoughts on the California Riding & Hiking Trail
Looking back, backpacking the California Riding & Hiking Trail in Joshua Tree National Park was everything I had hoped for and more: snow, stunning landscapes, complete solitude, and the joy of sharing the adventure with great company. The final day tested my endurance, but every step was worth it.
Tips for Future Hikers
- Water Caching is a Must: Plan your water drops strategically. Our most useful caches were at Juniper Flats and Geology Tour Road. Personally, I could have managed with just one of those, but it was better to have extra water than not enough!
- Be Prepared for Temperature Swings: mornings dropped to low 30s°F, while afternoons warmed up to 65°F under the sun.
- Expect Wildlife & Solitude: The desert has a way of surprising you. From unexpected snow to an elusive animal sighting, every moment felt special.
Would I do it again? Absolutely. But first, I need a long, warm Epsom salt bath!
Have you Backpacked the CRHT? Share your experience in the comments below, or drop a question if you need any tips!
Post originally published on March 22, 2025, and last updated on April 13, 2025.
